MAGAZINES 
Clay oven rules at Tandoori Grill
Delicious dishes at Tandoori Grill include aloo gobhi—cauliflower and potatoes, and paneer korma, a sweet, creamy curry with nuts and coconut; tandoori chicken with sauteed vegetables; and the house favorite, chicken tikka masala, in its vibrant tomato sauce.
By Hugh Ashmead
Photos by Phil Mumford
Venturing inside the kitchen of Boulder’s Tandoori Grill, a visitor will immediately notice two cube-shaped devices, each the size of a compact washing machine and throwing off copious heat. One is clad in thick terra-cotta tile, while the other is a sleek stainless-steel appliance. Each is a tandoor, and Gurjeet Gill, who co-owns the restaurant with her husband, Paul Dhanoa, explains that the term means “clay pot.” According to Gurjeet, the word tandoori refers to the cooking style, exemplified by the eponymous chicken dish, marinated in pungent masala spices.
Each tandoor houses a voluminous clay urn, superheated by charcoal and aromatic mesquite wood. One of the chefs adroitly stretches a ball of dough into a plate-size serving of naan flatbread. He pops the lid off the stainless tandoor, tosses dough onto the oven’s upper concave surface, where it remains, seemingly in defiance of gravity. In a minute, the bread is baked, displaying the characteristic puffiness and char of naan. The chef brushes on ghee—clarified butter—and the piping-hot delicacy is ready to serve.
The tandoors are the kitchen’s centerpiece, cooking everything from tandoori chicken ($12.99) to corn on the cob. Thus, it’s no surprise that the restaurant is named for its specialty ovens, although that wasn’t the initial plan. When newlyweds Gurjeet and Paul were deciding on a name for their restaurant over a dozen years ago, they racked their brains for a distinctive moniker. They settled on Tandoori Grill as a temporary name, and it has stuck ever since. For some of their early customers, the name was still a bit cryptic. Gurjeet recalls, “People asked if we served hamburgers and steaks.”
They initially didn’t, but the menu has evolved from the expected Indian standards to unique dishes driven by Paul’s innovative nature as well as by customer requests. What hasn’t changed is the Table Mesa location and the steady stream of loyal neighborhood customers, including many families. The setting here is warm and friendly, with a dark earth-tone interior and calming Indian music softly playing.
Gurjeet’s family has extensive restaurant experience in the U.S. and Canada, and they have operated eateries featuring fish-and-chips, ice cream, pizza, submarine sandwiches, seafood, and of course, Indian fare. She says, “I grew up in the business.” On the other hand, when the restaurant started, Paul was on a trajectory to pursue hands-on electrical work. Now Paul does much of the recipe development, a natural extension of the problem-solving and experimental nature of his original career path.
For example, Paul was intrigued by the idea of cooking corn on the cob in the tandoor. Vegetables and other smaller items are cooked on long metal skewers that bear a resemblance to the foils used in fencing. But it was challenging to get the corn to stick on the skewers, until Paul struck upon the idea of drilling out the cob to accommodate the metal rods. He’s also unafraid to experiment with other nontraditional ingredients. Tamarind duck prepared in the tandoor is available for $18.99, and fish pakoras ($7.99) combine the traditional fried-chickpea nibble with the spirit of fish-and-chips.
Chicken tikka masala ($13.99) is the grill’s most popular dish. “It’s a favorite,” says Gurjeet, “unless you’re lactose intolerant or trying to lose weight.” Tikka consists of tender poultry in a luxurious tomato cream sauce. Other in-demand items include saag paneer ($11.99), the velvety blend of cheese and spinach. A saag variant is always available at the expansive lunch buffet ($9.49), as are tandoori chicken, lentils, and chicken curry. Another often-ordered dish is the meatball masala, perhaps a tip of the hat to burger-seeking customers; it’s a favorite of Gurjeet and Paul’s young son. The Tandoori Grill’s specials often become permanent menu items by popular demand. The Jalfrezi ($10.99-$14.99), a traditional curry melding chicken, lamb, shrimp or paneer with mixed vegetables, is one selection that has made this transition.
Gurjeet dubs the restaurant’s vegetarian selection “huge,” and it includes mixed vegetable curries ($9.99) and a number of hearty preparations such as tarka dahl ($9.99). This mix of black lentils and kidney beans gets its kick from garlic, onion, ginger and tomato. Another unique item is the kofta entrée ($12.99), a vegetarian interpretation of a ground-meat specialty. Here, ground vegetables are bound together with paneer cheese. “Paneer will help it stick together,” says Gurjeet. But to keep it from falling apart, “You have to flash-fry it.”
While Gurjeet prefers wine with Indian food, customers gravitate toward beer. Indian brews include Taj Mahal, Flying Horse, Kingfisher and Maharaja, ranging in price from $5-$8. The chai ($3) has a delicious aroma of honey. House cocktails from the full bar include a $7.50 Mango Colada that originated when a customer wanted rum in a lassi, the yogurt-and-fruit drink. Once again, the Tandoori Grill moves beyond the expected, while responding to customer desires, to create a singular dining experience. u
When he’s not savoring a delicious meal, freelance writer Hugh Ashmead enjoys riding his cyclocross bike.
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