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Simple Success

Arugula: Fresh, Italian, light & healthy

Sometimes an entire philosophy can be summed up in one word. So discovered Alec Schuler, who opened his gourmet restaurant in February 2009 with a clear and precise vision: to offer delicious, healthful meals composed of simple ingredients in unique combinations. Having spent the 10 years prior devoting himself to the culinary arts—formal training at the Natural Gourmet School in Manhattan and chef gigs at Boulder’s L’Atelier and Niwot’s Treppeda’s Italian Ristorante—Schuler brought his dream to fruition and summed it up in his restaurant’s name: Arugula.

“It’s fresh, Italian, light and healthy,” Schuler says.

The same can be said for the fare at Arugula Bar e Ristorante, a spacious contemporary restaurant located in north Boulder in the original Laudisio’s space. Since opening, Arugula has cultivated a dedicated following of upscale diners who appreciate attention to detail, bold flavors and locally sourced ingredients such as 25 pounds of spinach picked the same morning it was served.

“When food is that fresh, it simply tastes better,” says Schuler, an early foodie whose own mother dubbed him “the little gourmet” for his elaborately composed after-school snacks. The little gourmet has grown up, but he still revels in pairing flavors, textures and colors on the plate. “Our food here is pretty simple,” he says. “I let the ingredients and flavors speak for themselves.”

A succulent dish of housemade gnocchi in a spicy tomato sauce with shaved garlic, sweet peppers, and seared wild Gulf shrimp.

And they do. Since opening, Schuler has made few changes to the menu—evidence that he got it right the first time. He incorporates new recipes and flavors with the nightly specials, which change every day. Particularly successful specials may work their way onto the main menu, but he’s unlikely to ditch any of the mainstays, out of deference to his regular patrons. “They’d still come in and ask for their favorite dish, and we’d say yes, because we never say no,” he says.

Besides, these dishes are favorites for a reason. Take the house-made vin santo pâté ($9), a Tuscan-style chicken-liver pâté served with Mission fig compote and grilled slices of bread. With its creamy texture and a deep, earthy flavor, the decadent pâté flirts with the taste buds and nearly convinces diners they could end the meal there.

But then along comes the gnocchi. A recent serving of the house gnocchi with duck confit ($19) was an ideal complement to the pâté. Pasta-like gnocchi, small dumplings made of a potato dough, are surprisingly difficult to execute with success, and thus make an ideal test piece in a restaurant. Schuler’s dish offers an exquisite balance of textures and flavors. The duck confit was tender and rich, and the mild gnocchi were firm. The addition of small apple slices offered a sweet yin to the duck’s distinctive yang. Fortunately Arugula offers its pasta and gnocchi dishes in half portions, a wise choice for anyone moving on to salads and entrées.

Bold & Vibrant

And of course you’ll move on. With classic salads like the eponymous house ($8), a spicy concoction of arugula tossed with only lemon and olive oil and served with caramelized onions and roasted tomatoes, and specials like the wild mushroom ($8), a bold and vibrant presentation of greens, enlivening mushrooms and pecorino, you’d do your palate a disservice to skip this course.

Arugula’s Chef Alec Schuler (standing, with his father, Paul, who manages the restaurant) lets ingredients and flavors “speak for themselves” in unique combinations.

When it comes to main courses, the menu offers extensive choice while staying true to Schuler’s philosophy of simplicity. There are scallops, pork tenderloin, hanger steak, a vegetarian platter and trout. The special menu may feature roast chicken, halibut cheeks, or any variety of meats, fish or vegetables available in limited quantities. Diners select a side dish—potato, Parmesan green beans, French green lentils or seared white polenta, among others.

The seared sea scallops and romesco ($22) is a beautiful arrangement of fresh hot scallops on top of a bright and rich red pepper-almond-garlic sauce. The accompanying green beans were cooked al dente, and their Parmesan topping added a delectable salty touch. The pork tenderloin ($20) is heavenly. Tender enough to cut with a butter knife and served with apple, fresh oregano and grappa sauce, the tenderloin tastes as though it came straight out of the stove of the Italian grandmother you wish you had.

Arugula’s extensive wine list features bottles from around the world, including myriad by-the-glass options. The wait staff is well versed in the wines’ flavors and characteristics, and their suggested pairings are worth following. The 2007 Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera ($9) came highly recommended, as did the Principato pinot grigio ($7) from Veneto, Italy. Arugula also offers wines by the half glass and a variety of carafe sizes.

A salad of shaved fennel with pine nuts, cherry tomatoes, basil, mint and feta cheese.

Dessert is equally satisfying, with a menu ranging from decadent to demure. The gelato is light yet rich; the lemon pudding cake ($8) is a fine balance of tart and sweet. Chocolate lovers won’t be disappointed, and neither will those who prefer to end their meal with an espresso or liqueur.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but after only two-plus, Arugula is a community fixture and the dining room is nearly always full. This summer Schuler will expand to the adjacent restaurant space to open Tangerine, a 60-seat breakfast, brunch and lunch joint, as well as Amaro, a drinking establishment with hand-crafted cocktails, an extensive selection of wines by the glass, and small plates.

Schuler credits much of his success to family support—his Swiss father manages the business and enjoys acting as the restaurant’s maître d’. Schuler’s parents relocated to Boulder before he opened Arugula, and in addition to sharing his love for food, they are active in the lives of his sons, Bruno and Alessandro. Schuler’s wife is Venezuelan, his mother is English, and he spent his childhood summers living abroad.

“Once you have lived and eaten internationally, it changes your outlook on food,” says Schuler. “You learn about the entire experience of eating.”

Rachel Odell Walker is a freelance writer and editor living in Boulder.